Being Present
summary
Guided visualization walks through surf prep—stretching, wetsuit chest constriction, lifting a waxed board, paddling hard through breaking waves—and makes the concrete claim that this kind of full-body focus increases working memory and everyday attention. Specific habits: wake at 6am, in the water by 7am for roughly two-hour sessions, surf in winter water near 38°F, treat priorities as Faith Health Family Friends Work, and use the breathing trick to outlast a 9–10 second panic when held underwater. Keep paddling as a practical motto.
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